Passing Time

Justin has been a bit stressed lately.  His FATA expired, and he has been grounded and unable to fly for the last four days or so.  Putting our worries about the security of his job aside, I have to say, it's been a real treat to have him home.  Justin wasn't the only one awaiting clearance from the DGCA (The FAA of India).  Over fifteen other pilots from Jet Airways and a dozen more from Kingfisher Airlines have all been in limbo.  Believe it or not, a lot of this is because a single man is on vacation and apparently he is the only one with the amazing ability to stamp random pieces of paper.  Remarkably silly actually, but that seems to be a completely acceptable explanation when it come to how things are run here in India.  One good thing that came from this is that one of our buddies in Chennai, who was also without a FATA, was able to come spend a few days with us here in Hyderabad.  Chris is a friend from back home and he was flying in Ireland before coming to India.  Dominika, Chris's girlfriend also came along and stayed with us for a few days.  It's about time we put some of these rooms to use.  We went out for tea and had a wonderful time.  We ended up chatting with a man from Somalia while we were out.  He is staying here in Hyderabad for work as well.  Hyderabad is largely known for Information Technology.  Microsoft has its largest facility outside the US here in Hyderabad in an area called HITEX, pretty clever.  I guess he heard us complaining about the living conditions and couldn't help but join in.  Our evening ended with a tasty dinner and a long night of talking.  Chris and Dominika hung out the next day and we played games and worked on the "never-ending-puzzle."  Yes, it's still not finished.  They flew back to Chennai that evening, I truly hope we get more chances to hang out with them again; we all had a great time.  The next day Justin received his FATA so it’s back to business.

 DOMINIKA, CHRIS, JUSTIN AND REBECCA

The Mail

The mail has been a hot topic for quite a few of our family and friends, since before Christmas and especially now with both Justin and my birthday coming up.  You have to understand though that mail really doesn't get delivered.  I would have to assume that it would be easier for us to send something back to the US and have it reach it’s destination with more success, yet I haven’t found one place that could possibility do this.  I know there is a “post office” and “FedEx” but they don’t have the same reliability.  There has to be some type of disclaimer for sending packages here.  For example, Jet Airways tried to send one of the guys here in our neighborhood a letter regarding his bank. He never received it and the bank ended up closing his account because after two months he still had not responded.  It was a real fiasco, his account was frozen and Jet Airways couldn't even deposit his paycheck.  It took almost a week after payday for the problem to be resolved.  We all had a laugh when we found out it was all due to an undelivered message.  That's what happened even when trying to send something domestically, so it's totally up to you guys.  Our electric bill is delivered by a guy on a rusted old bicycle each month, but it’s really more like he looks at the meter knocks on your door and you need to be able to pay cash right then and there because that is the only way the money will get where it needs to go.  I’m not trying to say that it isn’t impossible; I’m just looking out for all of your best interests.  If you could see how things work here you'd know what I mean.

Wait a minute...

 This guy looks like he knows how to deliver...

 Maybe it is possible after all.

Honey Nut Cheerios

How much would you pay to eat a nice cold bowl of Honey Nut Cheerios, or how about some Macaroni and Cheese?  Up until now we haven’t had to wonder. These items seemed to be impossible to find, but a few days ago we found the Bahaji Grand Bazaar.  It’s on the left hand corner of the street, a little ways before City Centre.  There’s an eye catching vegetable selection out front.  Broccoli, fresh lettuce, strawberries, and oranges that aren’t completely mushy, are often almost impossible items to find.  Let’s just say I had strawberries in my yogurt this morning, so this place was a real find.  We started to browse the isles; suddenly I see Justin’s face light up like a little kid, “Ohhhh Beck! Honey Nut Cheerios!” Unfortunately our joy didn’t last long; we flipped the box over only to discover a price equivalent of over $10.00.  Mac and Cheese, try $4.00. I don’t know who could possibly afford those prices around here.  An article from a few months ago stated that individuals making over 500 rupees a month are above the poverty line in India.  The Cheerios were 550 rupees.  Needless to say, we’ll be sticking to fruit and yogurt, but we did splurge on a few items, salsa, fresh bread, pasta sauce, and some how I managed to resist the Oreos, don’t ask me how.  Most markets are small and have a modest selection, usually you can find basic fruits and vegetables, along with noodles, rice, a range of spicy sauces, cooking oils and snack foods.  Some times there will be a very small meat section, frozen fish that’s usually questionable.  Beef forget it, cows are sacred to these people, some restaurants you can order water buffalo, if you get desperate.  After all this time we have only bought meat once, and it was some weird chicken sausage.  The only meat I’ve seen is usually hanging in some outdoor shop along a dusty alley on a hot day with flies and the smell of urine in the air.  Not exactly what I had in mind.  Plus, it’s usually heart, or some other organ.  But all things considered the markets are usually halfway decent.  If you eat local foods and save the cereal craving for your trip back home it’s amazing how inexpensive groceries are.  We can leave with three packed bags on each arm for under $15.00.  A loaf of bread is about 15 cents, pretty wild.

Happy New Year

2008 has now come and gone, and boy what a ride it has been.  This time last year we were enjoying snow filled days and hot cocoa back in Spokane, Washington.  Even then we had been tossing the idea of moving to India around for some time.  Part of me really believed we would never muster enough guts to actually do it, and another part told me there was no way we could possibly resist the opportunity.  We went back and forth and those of you who had the joy of hearing us change our mind daily and sometimes within the hour, had probably had about all they could stomach by the time we finally made up our minds.  After selling our house, our car, most of our belongings and saying goodbye to Marvin, our personality filled cat, we started to get a bit anxious.  Pretty soon we couldn't turn back and suddenly the world seemed to become a whole lot smaller.  I was always a serious student all through school, but I have to admit that part of me never cared much for geography.  I know it sounds awful, but the world seemed unpractical and out of reach.  I loved studying other civilizations and foreign languages, yet deep down I wondered if I would ever get a chance to really experience the cultures I had learned to love.  Upon graduation I traveled to Europe, but the time spent there was far too brief, a sample really.  Before you know it, all the responsibilities of life start to stack up and traveling seems to be a luxury that becomes less and less realistic. Despite this, Justin and I have made our way halfway across the globe with a confidence that we will see Japan, Spain, Australia, France or Africa, and I am truly thankful for our decision.  There is so much to see and do and I can’t wait to experience everything that this upcoming year has to offer.  The shock value of India is beginning to fade and the town has become smaller with each venture I undertake.  This is actually doable.  You find yourself and those around you becoming more patient and assertive or to be honest, a real jerk.  It’s really interesting, one thing I know for sure is that America is a wonderful place and that I never understood the true extent of that statement before coming here.  We are finding ways to laugh away some of the stress and tension and just kick back with friends and not take things too seriously.  I know this year is going to be a great one, family and friends are finishing school, undertaking new careers, moving into new homes, establishing relationships and even trying to have babies.  Happy New Year, we wish everyone happiness throughout the year and we can’t wait to hear about all the wonderful things that will be going on in all your lives back home.

 THE HYDERABAD CREW:  BRETT FAKE PUNCHING SCOTT, KAREN VISITING HER HUSBAND RYAN AND ME...ANYBODY SEEN JUSTIN?   

 

Around the Neighborhood

Not having a way of getting around has gotten to be quite an inconvenience.  Our need to become more familiar with the public transportation system couldn’t be ignored any longer.  One thing that is unfortunate about the location of our home and actually most of Hyderabad is that there is a very high Muslim population.  This definitely makes it harder to feel comfortable or safe when walking out and about, so we tend to avoid it all together.  You need to know your destination and go there directly.  Waiting hours for a taxi to show up only to be ripped off has simply compounded our frustration with the current setup.  So we decided to check out the auto-rickshaws that run up and down our street.  Hop in and off you go.  Along the way, everyone by the side of the road does the same.  Before you know it, people are sitting on each others laps, half your body is asleep and three guys are hanging onto the side of the vehicle.  There were 15 people in ours before we reached our destination.  But at 10 rupees each, you can’t argue with the price.  They dropped us off at the end of our road and from there you can take a smaller tuk tuk into town.  We soon discovered that what we had been paying between 700 and 1000 rupees to do, only cost about 100 rupees roundtrip if you are willing to make a few extra stops and get in a few extra confrontations with your drivers; but hey it felt good to be making sense of this crazy place.  After discovering that traveling was possible without too much hassle I decided to travel out alone to a nearby market.  Other than people using no restraint whatsoever when it comes to intense staring, it’s really not that bad.  All humor aside, the staring here has absolutely gone beyond any form of normal behavior.  I had the unique opportunity to enjoy staring of a new level when traveling alone.  It isn’t something easy to put into words, but it’s as if you’re not human.  It’s like you're a broken watch, something which requires every ounce of focus to understand and no reason to look away.  Add a tint of disgust and an unwelcome vibe and that might be about right.  Somehow even though it’s uncomfortable to be out sometimes, there is always a sense of satisfaction in knowing that you aren’t too afraid to live your life.

 TO SEE ALONG THE ROADSIDE LEADING TO OUR HOUSE GO TO THE "AROUND THE NEIGHBORHOOD" GALLERY

Exploring Pune

I recently flew to Pune to see Justin; with 18 overnights scheduled there this month this seemed to be a logical way for us to get a chance to spend the day together.  I was excited to see Justin, but I was really happy to be getting out and about.  Not to mention being able to take a normal shower with unlimited hot water followed by a wonderful night’s sleep on a soft mattress.  After waking up late and having a buffet style breakfast at the hotel we decided to hit the town.  If you are looking for anything like mouthwash or standard over the counter aspirin you have to go to a pharmacy.  I needed contact solution so that’s where we we're headed and after about 15 minutes of being ignored we finally gave up and left empty handed.  Sometimes it really sucks being a foreigner.  As we approached the corner a dog walking towards us turned around only to reveal a truly horrendous sight.  Some type of disease had taken over the poor animal’s unmentionables.  It looked like a huge inflamed mess of ground hamburger meat. Justin and I both shrieked involuntarily.  Right about the moment a women holding a baby became aware of us and immediately started shouting at all her children to basically stop manning their current stations and quickly head over to beg us for money.  The infected dog was coming dangerously close, I was fully ready to jump head first into traffic before I would let that dog even attempt to make contact.  Seriously, with the dog, the women in the intersection, her children and the traffic let’s just say we were lucky to have both been pretty good at Frogger back in our day.  With the potential contamination averted we scrolled the nearby streets with relief. Pune had amazing plant life and many nature trails.  We love going on walks, but we haven’t been able to do much of that after leaving the US.  Spiders the size of my hand and bamboo taller than I had ever seen lined many of the paths.  I couldn’t help but think of my dad who is often searching for the perfect piece of bamboo to be transformed into a flute.  Pune seemed to have a large population of westerners, most of which were wearing burgundy robes, dresses or tunics. We really started to get curious to what it was all about.  They were all members of OSHO. Was this some weird cult or what? We had to investigate.  Before being able to tour the OSHO facility we were required to watch a video. Instead of hearing what OSHO was about I felt like I was being sold some type of timeshare.  They obviously didn’t see us rolling our eyes at each other during the video because they still let us take the tour.  Long story short, after hearing that you have to take an AIDS test to join, we were pretty sure the video didn’t quite give the full picture and that some seriously weird stuff was taking place inside.  After leaving we found a great place to eat and finally made our way back to the hotel, settling in for a relaxing evening.

CHECK OUT MORE PHOTOS IN OUR "EXPLORING PUNE" GALLERY

A Typical Day

Quite a few people have been asking questions about what a typical day here is like.  Despite being a relatively simple question, I’ve had trouble answering.  Living in India is different than I could have imagined.  Although we have the ability to search Google for endless videos and images of the world, there is something about living here that could only be experienced. Before coming to India it seemed easy to imagine what it would be like not having fresh water pouring from a kitchen facet.  Not hard to believe what truly polluted air looks and smells like or how it would feel to walk through a city with millions of other people.  What your heart undergoes as people with leprosy reach out, without fingers to grasp what’s offered, or the awareness of what it’s like to truly be a minority.  Sometimes it seems easy to imagine how all these things would affect you, but living here in India, let’s you find out for yourself.  Each day is somehow like the day before, yet you know that the possibilities of what could happen are endless.  After experiencing things that once seems hard to believe, it’s easy to begin to reexamine your life and priorities.  This is truly an enriching experience and I know Justin and I will now treasure things that we may have otherwise taken for granted.  Working here for Justin is almost like being able to take a step back in time.  A romantic era that is nearly lost in the US is still alive here in India.  Flying is surely a luxury and is still a sincerely mesmerizing sight. Pilots are treated with respect and are inundated with admiration. Somehow, Justin and the other men here have been lucky enough to get the chance to have their own little slice of a generation past.  Other than being half way around the world and away from family and friends I believe he truly does love going to work.  His schedule is less than desirable this month, but we are both optimistic that it will improve in January.  In the meantime I fill my days, with reading, going into town for supplies, socializing with the other expats here and, of course, painting.  It’s been wonderful to be able to sit and work on a piece and not have to worry about having time to finish it.  I’m trying some new techniques and can’t seem to get enough color, maybe it’s something to do with having neon orange and yellow walls.  Go figure.

 CHECK OUT MORE OF MY PAINTINGS IN THE "ARTWORK" GALLERY

Villa #64

As I walked the street leading to what was soon to be our new home in India, I could see two figures rushing towards me in the distance.  After only spending a few days here, I immediately realized that the notion of having a servant isn’t something rich people shy away from.  As an example, for less than a dollar each day you could have someone clean your home 30 times in one month.  Unfortunately, the entire idea of having someone at my beck and call following me around waiting to fulfill my every moments desire, quite frankly gives me the creeps.  This being said, it’s understandable why my stomach sank as I became aware that shapes in the distance had now reached me.  The two men had hurried to assist me.  With a motion of my arm and a cautious smile, I tried to decline their persistent offers.  “No, no it’s really okay, I’ve got ...” and before I could finish, my luggage was no longer under my power.  A deep sign accompanied my failure to defend against their aid.  From my pocket, I grabbed the key to open the door, this too was snatched from my hand, “I’ll help.”  He said while turning the key.  Keep in mind, that I am a relatively reserved person and although I can be very social, I require quite a bit of time alone, in order to maintain my sanity.  With my belongings now inside, I hoped that when I turned around the men would be gone, but as you have probably guessed that was not the case.  I moved throughout the house attempting to store my things.  The men followed me just as a compass follows north.  I motioned towards the fridge, suddenly the door opens, and I try to lift a nearly weightless box, only to have a taken away.  About this time, I was mentally spent and I realized that I would surely be on the brink of a panic attack if I didn’t get these guys out of my house, in about 30 seconds.  But with a serious language barrier, this was easier said than done. Another factor was that this was what these men do and if you truly refuse their services outright, it can actually be taken offensively.  I genuinely didn’t want to insult them, but on the other hand, I genuinely didn’t want the help.  After a lot of pointing at the door along with, “Thank you.  No more.  All done, finished.”  One of the words seemed to strike a chord with them and thankfully they left without becoming upset.  It’s completely possible that I actually started twirling about the living room with joy after their departure.  I leisurely explored our new home.  Three stories, four bedrooms, four bathrooms, a servant’s quarters, marble like you wouldn’t believe and every color of the rainbow covering the walls were just a few of the villas excessive features. Our home in Alaska was literally not much more than a single room, our apartment in Tacoma was about 350 square feet and in Spokane we lived in our spacious home totaling a whopping 672 square feet.  With the Villa totaling over 3000 square feet it really seemed silly to be honest.  Nevertheless, as Justin would say, it is what is it and here we are.  Although we couldn't possiblity use all of the space, I can't complain.  Some people here seem to live in even worst conditions than that of some I saw in Mumbai.  It's hard not to feel a bit guilty about having this enormous home, while people nearby are literally sleeping in the streets. 

CHECK OUT MORE PHOTOS OF OUR PLACE BY CLICKING ON THE "VILLA #64" GALLERY

 

Life in the Fast Lane

Strange birds, astoundingly loud chanting and of course a variety of horns started my morning reassuring me that I was in fact, still in India.  My cup of tea now finished, it was time to start the search for our new home.  I couldn’t believe how enormous the rentals were.  You have to realize that there isn’t much of a middle class here, so it’s either a three story villa or a blue tarp held up by sticks near the roadside.  This isn’t an exaggeration.  Feeling quite overwhelmed I kept asking if there was anything smaller.  A puzzled look along with “No, no this is no problem” didn’t convince me that Anand, the guy showing the homes, understood what I was trying to convey.  One of the places stood out and seemed to feel a bit more like a home, but Scott wanted to show me around the area so I could get a feel for everything that was out there.  Although the villas are close to the airport, they are some distance from town, which meant you really needed to obtain some type of permanent transportation in order to travel anywhere, really.  Scott, Brett and Ryan all decided to purchase motorcycles to deal with this dilemma.  Okay, so when I spoke about life or death in a tuk tuk that was the most extreme example I had at the time.  Going on a bike wasn’t something that appeared sane to attempt, so I didn’t even bother mentioning it.  Had I known then that only weeks later I would be holding on to the back of a bike hoping not to be killed in the process then I would have.  Cars, camels and cows all shared the road, yet we maneuvered with ease.  I found myself smiling from under my motorcycle helmet.  It truly was fun.  I discovered that this was an experience that I could have nowhere else but here in India.  It made me feel alive and ecstatic not to have missed out.  We reached our destination safely and finished our trip with a cup of coffee and tea at “Barista” in Banjara Hills.  The next day after hours of bargaining, Justin and I signed on villa number 64.  With nightfall upon us, we picked up some household goods and started our journey home.  As buses rushed past, I gazed into the evening sky amazingly enough, to discover stars.  This was a first for me here in India.  The smog is often so thick that I had almost given up even trying to spot a sparkle from above.  But despite this, two stars refused to hide and with the moon hanging below it gave me the impression that the night sky and I both smiled when we caught notice of one another.  What a sincere warm welcome, I hope that Hyderabad holds even more wonderful days ahead.

 

Off to Hyderabad

Packing up from the hotel brought a sense of relief and also an unsettling thought that more change was on the way.  The Mumbai airport was obviously not the most popular destination in light of the recent attacks, which brought out a bit of sadness in Justin.  A brief stop to check bags left us with just enough time to enjoy a strawberry shake together before I set off for Hyderabad.  Watching the planes arrive and depart never fails to spark a feeling of wonder within me and fond thoughts of how my husband has shared a part of his romantic world of flying with me.  With my life crammed into just a few pieces of luggage I waited anxiously as the same bags circled without mine anywhere in sight.  Finally they showed, now off to find a place to wait for Scott to get off work.  Hyderabad welcomed me with a misty rain that comforted my mind evoking nostalgia of days past in Oregon.  After several hours of being eye balled, I was delighted to receive Scott’s call letting me know we would be heading to his home soon.  His place was shared by Ryan and Brett; all three guys worked for Empire Airlines before coming to India, which fortunately allowed us to skip the awkward introductions.  After a quick recap of everyone’s latest gossip, I hit the bed like a ton of bricks.  Dog-tired, yet thoughts still seemed to overrun my mind.  With Justin working the line at last, and plans to search for a home in the morning, the reality that we truly would be based in Hyderabad was finally setting in. 

CHECK OUT MORE PICTURES OF JUSTIN AT WORK IN THE "JET AIRWAYS" EQUIPMENT GALLERY

Mumbai Under Attack

Not long after falling asleep to what I thought would be a typical night, I awoke to a panicked call from Keith, one of our friends here at the Grand Hyatt Hotel.  I hoped his call was simply a part of an awful nightmare, only to discover just how genuine this concerning situation was.  I turned on the television; graphic images bombarded my mind making it difficult to process what in fact was going on.  Not being quite familiar with the area yet wasn't helping to ease my worries.  I rummaged around the room trying to find our map of Mumbai.  Live footage rolled freely on the news at this point and the audio would often cut out for minutes at a time while bombs went off.   People of Mumbai frantically stirred about the streets.  As each new targeted area was announced I scrambled to follow along with the map.  Only to learn, that some of the blasts were coming frighteningly close to my location. Right about that time, I heard yelling in the halls and footsteps rushing up the stairs near my room.  My heart pounded and my hearing became ultra-sensitive to even the slightest of sounds. I quickly turned out my light and stayed motionless while praying to be watched over.  Fortunately our hotel was not under attack and I was ok.  When I gained enough courage to look out my window I saw that military trucks were parked outside the main entrance and that everything seemed relatively normal otherwise.  I found my phone and called Justin in Bangalore. The news here was really unrefined, the announcers would shout "The police DO NOT have the situation under control!  The terrorist are spreading throughout the city." Meanwhile, the camera would zoom in on what appeared to be the remains of those already killed in the attacks; followed by images of bodies being dragged through the streets. One moment they were speaking with the ATS Chief and literally five minutes later they were reporting that he had been killed. Then they began replaying the recorded footage of the interview from only moments ago, with a headline "The last interview with ATS chief, Hermant Karkare.”  It was very unnerving to say the least.  I reached a point where I could not sleep, but my body couldn't stay awake and finally passed out from pure exhaustion.  I awoke to another phone call from our friend Nathan who is based in Mumbai, but happened to currently be out of town.  He called with questions regarding how I was doing and wondered if everything was ok.  So far, twelve places had been attacked. Leopold's Café, a place where Justin and I have both eaten several times, was among the first locations to be hit. Just a few weeks ago Justin even bought a T-shirt with the restaurants logo.  News that usually streams from halfway around the world has quickly changed to broadcasts of rubble from our local neighborhood.  I visited the Taj Hotel the day I arrived in India.  The targets were definitely places visited by many foreigners.  There is a concerned and strange vibe here at the Grand Hyatt.  We are safe right now and will let everyone know as things unfold.  Don't worry, I won’t be traveling outside in the near future and all the other pilots here at the hotel have been looking out for me.  We are staying close and talking often.  Justin should be home tonight; that is, if they will let him return to the Mumbai airport.  Also we should be moving to Hyderabad the first of December, so we won’t be in Mumbai much longer. We love everyone and appreciate all the concerned phone calls, emails, and posts. I will post more information on the general discussion forum as things develop.

 MORE PHOTOS FROM THIS POSTS CAN BE FOUND IN OUR GALLERY "UNDER ATTACK"

True Decadence

Now I can appreciate an extravagant wedding like the next person, but last night I witnessed something unlike anything I could have imagined. Take all my friends, invite all their buddies then have them invite all the people they know, the last person they met at the grocery store, their third grade teachers, and all their families and maybe just maybe you might have half the amount of people that attended this wedding. When your luxury vehicle’s tires hit the red carpet, you’ve arrived. Twenty foot high constructed lotus flowers lined the perimeter. An enormous stage adorned with elaborate decorations captured stares from anyone who caught even a simple glimpse while passing by. Intent on snapping a few shots Nathan, Keith and I set out on what turned into a bit of a mission. After being denied by security and sneaking into storage areas only to find the window views useless, we nearly gave up. One last attempt, followed by a please and a thank you and we had a personal escort straight to the hotel rooftop. The wedding party alone booked two entire floors of the Grand Hyatt Hotel. Apparently it is tradition that the brother of the bride steals the shoes from the groom before the wedding and the shoes are held for ransom essentially until the groom’s family hands over a ridiculous amount of money in exchange. It’s a standard ritual in Indian weddings and supposedly is quite fun. Hopefully he had one mighty fine pair of loafers because it’s going to take a chunk of change to make up for one of the most outward displays of useless spending I’ve seen yet. 

  CHECK OUT THE REST OF THE PHOTOS FROM THIS POST IN OUR TRUE DECADENCE GALLERY

City Streets

Not long after the sun fades beyond the horizon, the city streets come alive.  As temperatures drop, local women flood to the streets in search of the day's evening meal.  Approaching the market will likely overwhelm your senses.  Mysterious smells, nameless fruits, countless vegetables and a view filled with a full spectrum of vibrant colors surround you.  Everything from underwear, to toy tops all share the same streets.  All of which cost little more than a few rupees.  Twilight is one of the best times to explore.  Music fills the air as children play drums along the roadside.  Passing by with curious smiles, people give the impression of simply being happy to be out and about.  With fewer horns blaring and a bit less sweat on your brow it’s hard not to feel the same way.  It isn’t until early evening that children begin to make their way home from school and if you’re hungry around this same time, you can forget about finding an open place to dine anywhere until long after nightfall.  You truly can’t resist letting the energy of the streets carry you away, because oddly enough the rubbish and the waste seemingly dim in the midst of glowing lanterns and the darkness.  

 CHECK OUT MORE PHOTOS FROM THIS POST BY VIEWING OUR "CITY STREETS" GALLERY

 

Express Cleaners

With a hotel laundry allowance of only four articles of clothing per day Justin and I soon realized we had to find another option, and fast.  On the way to one of our favorite local restaurants we pass the “Express Cleaners”.  Clean isn’t usually the general vibe you get when walking anywhere near the hotel and this shop was no exception, but desperate times call for desperate measures.  Much like back home, I took on the task to get this laundry situation settled, so I set out on my own.  So far I have only been out with the guys, so I put on some extra clothes along with my game face and hit the streets.  Turn right at the hotel, about block after the cows take another right, pass about two dozen neglected dogs and a small boy urinating in the streets and you’re sure to find the local laundry facility.  I felt a little out of place with my monster sack of garments.  As I waited I noticed most patrons stood holding a single item to be cleaned.  After I caught a glimpse of what I believed to be a twinkle of delight in the owner’s eyes I realized my sack was a welcomed sight.  In spite of my recently lost voice due to a combination of pollution and a nasty cold I successfully communicated my dire need for his services.  We settled on a price of 20 rupees for socks and underwear and 30 rupees for everything else. (50 rupees = approx. $1.00)  This was terrific in comparison to $11.00 which the hotel charges to wash just one additional pair of jeans outside of your daily allowance.  I departed, and was bid farewell along with a “God bless you” from the man at the counter.  I made my way back towards the hotel and suddenly four arms shot out of a tuk tuk and waved frantically.  I soon discovered that Justin and John were buzzing by on their way to the S.M. Center to deal with work matters.  I couldn’t help, but wonder if they took an unfamiliar route to check-in on my progress.  Either way, it made me smile inside regardless of my otherwise stoic demeanor.  Astonishingly enough, all 30 plus pieces were ready on time and at least seemed clean, mission accomplished.

 

Elephanta Island

Ferry boats departing from the Gateway of India travel daily to Elephanta Island.  Elephanta Island is usually visited by those looking to come face to face with the sculptures carved into the inner walls of the island’s caves.  Unfortunately the caves were closed, but on a positive note, the island was much less crowded.  In my opinion this gave us a unique opportunity to enjoy the island all on our own. After a little more than an hour on the boat we arrived.  A small train was waiting upon our arrival and dropped us off near an area where local people waited to sell fresh fruits and small trinkets.  The stairs on the way to the caves were lined with vendors.  As we ventured on we were greeted by monkeys. Well to say greet, may be a bit generous; as the monkeys approached I felt my pulse pound in my neck.  One came close and I must not have been hiding my apprehension well because Justin shouted, “Beck, you can't act freaked out." The problem was I wasn't acting I truly was a bit freaked.  Right about that time, a women walking in front of us fell victim to just what I had feared for myself. The monkeys surrounded her and without hesitation snatched her purse and began rummaging for food. After tossing her belongings onto the ground, some I’m sure she wished to keep private; they appeared to find what they had been searching for. I felt my grasp tighten on the bag that hung at my waist. The monkeys only seemed to hang out near the heavily populated areas and luckily we realized they attacked from behind so Nathan and Eric took the sides and Justin took the back keeping me comfortably surrounded whenever monkeys popped out of the trees. Finally I could focus on our gorgeous atmosphere, filled with unusual vegetation and breathtaking views. Sights I had once daydreamed of seeing while watching National Geographic where all around us. We walked on and came to a small village.  Many women held loads upon theirs heads that even Justin confessed he wouldn’t dare attempt to lift.  After reaching the top we started our way back down to the harbor for our ferry ride home.  Our day ended with a spectacular sunset that refused to allow its brilliance to be captured by photograph.  What a terrific day packed with novelty and raw experiences.

FOR MORE PICTURES FROM THIS POST CHECK OUT OUR ELEPHANTA ISLAND PHOTO GALLERY 

Mumbai, India

GETTING AROUND

Before we start you should understand traveling anywhere is often a full day affair. An outing will surely begin with a drawn out bartering war with your potential driver. Once an agreement is reached you’ll hop in and fasten your seat belt, wait they don’t usually have those. If you’re lucky you’re traveling in a blue “cool cab” trust me the air conditioning is worth the extra cost. Take a “cool cab” minus the AC and some of the comfort and you have the standard black taxi, and if you are ready to risk it all including what may be your life, travel by rickshaw, also known as a tuk tuk. Now the fun begins. Speed without limits, streets without lanes and drivers without fear all make up for a ride worthy of nothing less than a near death chase scene in a Hollywood blockbuster. This isn’t always the case; you often spend the rest of your trip in a jumbled mess of back to back traffic that appears motionless far into the distance. Don’t worry there are plenty feather dusters, giant balloons, and other useless things being sold by people weaving back and forth through the congestion. While stopped you are sure to be visited by a woman holding a young baby asking for food or water all the while, tapping at your window. In the States panhandlers usually take the goods and quickly return to their original post with cardboard sign in hand. In contrast, here as soon as you give 10 rupees you find yourself suddenly much more popular than you desired. Justin gave his bottled water to a young boy while waiting in traffic and in what seemed to be a blink of an eye the water was passed off and the same boy returned asking for more. Here in India so much is needed that one can’t possibly give what is necessary. Once you reach your destination your driver will often wait, hours or even the whole day if negotiated in the original price. Enjoy the city and rest assured you’ll make it back because you don’t pay until your back at the hotel doorsteps.

Together in Mumbai, India

THE JOURNEY

Despite cancellations, delays and boarding with mere seconds to spare, I eventually made my way onto the Jet Airways flight.  I was able to travel in Premiere Class, and it was truly an experience like I have never had while flying.  During my flight I was able to watch movies or play video games on my personal flat screen, select breakfast, lunch and dinner from a lavish menu and rest easily after reclining my seat into a completely horizontal position.  Even though I had many other wonderful luxuries to temporally distract me, I had to admit, I knew it was an illusion that would stop the moment I stepped off the plane.

 

ARRIVING IN MUMBAI 

I was ready to head to customs and all I kept thinking was "Ok...be cool."  It worked, and I was lucky enough to pass security and have my luggage be one of the first to circle the baggage carousel.  After a short stop for rupees and I long walkway full of stares I found my way outside the terminal.  A sea of people stood behind a barricade some held signs, others shouted offers to travel by rickshaw, and one tall blond haired, blued eyed man smiled and rushed to distribute a long needed hug.  Thank goodness Justin found me amongst the chaos.  Who would have thought we would ever find ourselves with the 22 million other people here in the most populated city in the world, Mumbai, India.

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